Print it solid
- Use at least 3 walls and 30% infill so the mold does not flex under clamps.
- A 0.12 to 0.16 mm layer height leaves fewer lines on your cast.
- PLA and PETG both work. A resin printer gives the smoothest cavity.
3MF, STL and OBJ
Straight from your slicer, scanner or AI model maker.
Keys, pour hole, vents
Cut in for you, so the halves line up and fill evenly.
Stays on your device
Models are read in your browser and never uploaded.
Mold studio
Change a setting and the preview updates straight away.
What the preview shows
Drag to turn, right drag to move, scroll to zoom
Fetching the toy blaster
How it works
From a digital model to a mold on your desk in four steps.
- 01
Load your model
Your toy blaster opens automatically. Drop in any other 3MF, STL or OBJ file to swap it, and leave out stray loose bits with one tick.
- 02
Set the split
Turn the model until the orange split line runs around its widest outline. That way each half lifts straight off without catching.
- 03
Make the mold
Moldwright carves the cavity into a solid block, adds four round keys so the halves close only one way, and cuts a pour hole with air vents.
- 04
Print and cast
Both halves download already turned cavity up, so they print without supports. Seal them, clamp them shut and pour.
Casting guide
Get a clean cast on the first pour.
A printed mold is rigid, so it works best when the split line runs around the widest outline of the model. If a half will not let go, move the split line or pour silicone into the printed mold to make a flexible one.
Wear gloves and eye protection, and work somewhere with fresh air when you mix resins. Follow the safety sheet that comes with your material.
Seal the cavity
- Sand the cavity lightly to knock down layer lines.
- Brush on a thin coat of epoxy or a print sealer and let it cure.
- Spray mold release before every pour so the cast lets go.
Clamp and pour
- Line up the round keys and press the halves together.
- Hold them with clamps, strong tape or rubber bands.
- Pour slowly through the funnel until material shows in the air vents.
What to pour
| Material | Best for | Good to know |
|---|---|---|
| Polyurethane resin | Hard toy parts and props | Cures in 10 to 30 minutes. Mix exactly by weight. |
| Epoxy resin | Clear or glossy pieces | Slower to cure, so bubbles have time to rise out. |
| Platinum silicone | Soft, bendy copies | Some printed surfaces stop it curing. Seal the mold first. |
| Plaster or casting stone | Display pieces and paint tests | Cheap and easy. Let it dry a full day before painting. |
Which files can I use?
3MF, STL and OBJ files up to 250 MB. That covers exports from slicers, CAD apps, 3D scanners and AI model makers. OBJ files are turned upright automatically, and you can turn any model with the buttons in the studio.
Is my model uploaded anywhere?
No. Your file is read and the mold is made inside your own browser. Nothing you load in the studio is sent to a server.
Where should the split line go?
Around the widest outline of the model. Laying a toy or figure on its side and splitting it through the middle works for most shapes, which is why the studio starts that way. Move the line up or down if one half has a deep pocket that would trap it.
How long does it take?
A few seconds for simple shapes and up to about a minute for very detailed ones. If your browser struggles, switch the detail to Standard or Light. Standard still keeps details finer than most printers can show.
What are the loose bits in my model?
Some files contain small floating fragments next to the main shape. They would turn into odd little holes in the mold, so the studio leaves them out by default. Tick them back in if they belong to the model.
How thick should the walls be?
About 10 mm suits most printed molds up to the size of a hand. Go thicker for big molds or soft filament, and keep the fit gap around 0.3 mm so the keys close without forcing.